June 16, 2017
Route 84. The Columbia River Gorge. Day is breaking here, pale sunrise streaks the sky. To the right, the Columbia River, massive and running full, its surface rippling under the wind.
Route 84. The Columbia River Gorge. Day is breaking here, pale sunrise streaks the sky. To the right, the Columbia River, massive and running full, its surface rippling under the wind.
On
the very edge of the river, below us, railroad tracks, with miles of
freight train sliding slowly eastward. The opposite bank holds a
similar train, flat cars holding one and sometimes two shipping
containers. Four engines in front of each train, and two behind,
provide power. Lining the river, reaching deep and trailing their
branches into its life giving flow, are green trees. Their color
waves in stark contrast to the barren hills
To
our left and right, higher up, much higher up – are they hills or
are they mountains? Dry, empty, but for brown grass and small
bushes. The surface of the ground is rippled, lumpy, as though a
quilt was thrown over an unmade bed. In places, the road cuts
through rock, its sheer face rising straight up on both sides,
momentarily blocking the river’s view. Partway up the steep
incline, an oval opening carved into the rock. What comes and goes
through that opening? Lives inside the rock?
Atop
the high hills, Indian scouts, long hair blowing in the wind, sit
astride durable mustang ponies, alert to any small threat. No,
instead, hundreds of massive windmills turn slowly in the wind,
controlled revolutions carving unending circles in the wind currents.
(The Trucker and I parked near a rig earlier this week, carrying one giant blade of these windmills. The blade alone is 148 feet long, weighing 23,000 pounds. At the height of its revolution, each blade reaches 400 feet into the air.)
This video is from a different trip and location, but same type of turbine.
(The Trucker and I parked near a rig earlier this week, carrying one giant blade of these windmills. The blade alone is 148 feet long, weighing 23,000 pounds. At the height of its revolution, each blade reaches 400 feet into the air.)
Wind
roars down the canyon and presses against the nose of the truck like
an unseen hand. The truck sways and bucks, trying to cut away from
the pressure. The Trucker sits upright in his seat, leaning forward,
forearms resting on the wheel. He is relaxed, yet intensely aware of
every sound and vibration; nothing beyond the windshield or
underneath him escapes his notice.
High
above, the sky that can be seen gradually lightens. Now the ripples
on the river’s surface deepen and lift into waves. The railroad
tracks curve away from the river, carrying their trains and cargo
with them. The mountains lower into hills, showing geometrical
patches of green where cultivation has been accomplished. A break in
the hills provides a view of the full moon, gliding toward the
western horizon, its yellow glow fading to white as it loses the
competition against the burning sun.
With
ever increasing strength, the wind slaps a mighty hand against the
truck. Trees thrash and whitecaps form against the unrelenting
force. The Trucker tenses, both hands tight on the wheel, holding it
steady as we cross the river. This Passenger is all too aware that
the road is just a narrow strip, alone and unprotected, between the
waves. Curving back to land, Route 84 hugs the hills again. Rising
majestically in the west, Mt. Hood can now be seen, jutting into the
sky above a rolling mass of dark clouds, their edges rimmed by light
from the east-rising sun.
The
road now flows downward. The river widens, marshy areas join it to
the bank. Boats dock at its edge. A white tugboat shoves a weighty
barge upriver. The hills lower, and carry towns on their edges and
ledges. Green and lush, trees are interspersed with the scar of
civilization. Rising sharply away from the towns, dry hills reach
toward the sky, which is now a brighter, deeper blue. Suddenly round
a hill, the Trucker and I come face to face with the newly risen sun.